Rhum Agricole, Agricole-Style Rhum & Cane Juice Rum
Introduction to Rhum Agricole
Special Feature- Rhum Agricole
If you walk into an average bar in North America or in Europe and ask a dozen patrons what is a “Rhum Agricole,” you are likely to receive just as many different answers. Some of them are likely be among the following (I have heard all of these):
• I don’t know
• It is just another fancy name for rum
• It refers to any rum made in the French West Indies
• It refers to any rum made in Martinique
• It is rum made anywhere, but only from sugarcane juice (no molasses or crystalized sugar)
• It is rum made exclusively from hand-cut sugarcane
• It is rum distilled using only small pot stills
• It is rum that is naturally fermented (no yeast is added to the cane juice by the producer)
• It is a form of rum or aguardiente like the Brazilian Cachaca, but made in the French West Indies
• It is rum that tastes more like whisky than traditional rum
The diversity in answers is due, in great part, to the particular focus that each Rhum Agricole producer gives to its brand, focusing more on one differentiating factor than on others.
We have devoted this special issue of “Got Rum?” to this fascinating topic of Rhum Agricole. We hope to shed some light on the subject, but only enough to encourage you, the reader, to do further research on your own, and to spread the results of that research with your friends.
Rhum Agricole - A Definition
(Source: Journal Officiel de la République Française (page 16360), Décret du 5 novembre 1996 relatif à l’appellation d’or igine contrôlée “Martinique”. NOR: FCEC9600198D)
When talking about Rhum Agricole, it is important to differentiate between HOW it is made and WHERE it is made. Some distillates have protected or restricted denominations (Cognac, Tequila, Cachaca, etc.), meaning that they must be produced and/or aged in certain countries or regions in order to use the particular name/denomination. This is also the case with Rhum Agricole: there is a Protected Designation of Origin (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée or AOC in French) for Rhum Agricole made in Martinique (Martinique is in the Caribbean and is considered a French overseas region).
In order to be recognized as AOC Martinique Rhum Agricole, the rhum must meet the following criteria:
Geography
It must be made from sugarcane cultivated in one of the 23 approved municipalities in Martinique.
Agriculture
The cultivation methods are also clearly defined to keep yields low, by discouraging aggressive fertilization practices that would increase yields but that are seen as unsustainable.
Sugarcane Processing
The cane juice must have a Brix level above 14 and a pH above 4.7 and must be extracted from the cane using cold pressing methods only.
Fermentation
Can be spontaneous or achieved through pitching a concentrated yeast solution. The fermentation must be in batches (discontinuous) and must be carried out in open containers (no CO2 capture) with a capacity no larger than 50,000 liters (13,208 gallons). The fermentation time cannot exceed 72 hours.
Distillation
The distillation of AOC Martinique Rhum Agricole must be done using continuous distillation columns, with a diameter of between 0.7 and 2 meters (between 27 and 78 inches). The column must have:
• no fewer than 15 stripping plates (copper or stainless steel)
• between 5 and 9 rectifying copper plates
• at least one water-cooled condenser for reflux
Classifications
Rhum Agricole produced according to the above definition is then given a different classification based on its aging:
• “Blanc” or white, refers to rhum that has been “resting” for no more than 3 months since its distillation.
• “Elevé sous bois” means “oak aged” and refers to rhum aged in oak barrels in the same production area where it was distilled, for at least 12 uninterrupted months. The congener level must be higher than 250 mg per 100 mL of anhydruous alcohol (pure alcohol).
• “Vieux” or “old” refers to rhum aged in oak barrels in the same production area where it was distilled, for at least 36 uninterrupted months. The congener level must be higher than 325 mg per 100 mL of anhydruous alcohol.
Note: For the last two classifications, the congener level refers to the volatile components in the rhum, excluding ethanol and methanol.
Rhum Agricole - Ti’ Punch
Ti’ Punch
Ti’ Punch, an abbreviation for Petit Ponch or “small punch” is a very popular cocktail in the French West Indies, where it is made using the locally-produced Rhum Agricole.
Here is a basic recipe, but many variations exist, including the addition of other fresh fruit or syrups. Start with the simple recipe, then let your imagination run wild. Cheers!
Ingredients:
• 2 oz. Rhum Agricole, Blanc (white) or Vieux (aged)
• 1 Splash of Sugarcane Syrup
• 1 Lime Wedge
• Lime Peel (about a fourth of the outer skin of the lime)
Directions:
Place the sugarcane syrup in a rocks glass and add a splash of the cane syrup. Add the Rhum Agricole and a few ice cubes. Stir gently and garnish the drink with the lime peel.
