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Mount Gay XO
When I began exploring rums, Barbados Mount Gay XO was one of the first “sipping” rums I explored and studied. This rum was the work of master blender Allen Smith and a huge steppingstone in my education of the spirit. During 2014, we saw the company get purchased by Remy Cointreau, and many people wondered how the brand would change. In 2019, Mr. Smith retired, and Trudiann Branker took over as the company’s master blender, becoming the first woman to hold the title in the island’s history of rum production. One of the first rums I was aware she had changed was Mount Gay XO, and I was curious to see how well it held up to the original blend that was such an essential part of my rum foundation. The new version of XO is a blend of copper pot and column still rums that are aged between 5 and 17 years in ex-bourbon, American whiskey, and cognac casks. The rum is blended to 43% ABV using water from the estate’s well and bottled on the island for distribution.
Mount Gay XO
Appearance
The 750 ml always reminds me of the old prohibition era apothecary bottles that were used for medicines and tonics. Its long neck and flask-shaped bottle stand out and are easy to spot on backbars and in liquor stores due to their unique look. A touch I particularly like are the words “Est. 1703 Mount Gay Distilleries” embossed along the front bottom of the bottle. The label provides a good bit of information about the spirit and how it is produced. The plastic cap holds a cork to the bottle and is secured with gold and black security wrap.
The rum holds a rich amber color in the bottle and lightens slightly in the glass. Swirling the glass creates a thin band that slowly thickens and releases a single round of slow moving legs. It takes quite some time for the ring to evaporate, leaving a band of residue around the glass.
Nose
The aroma of the rum begins with a swirl of fruit, vanilla, and oak notes. After the liquid settles, the light astringency of the alcohol weaves with notes of fresh banana, Crème Brule, raisins, Ceylon tea, and toasted tobacco leaf.
Palate
Sipping the rum leads with strong notes of caramelized vanilla and robust fruit flavors of banana, grilled pineapple, red apple, apricots, and raisins. The smoky oak notes form an earthy foundation, but never dominate the flavor profile. These notes deliver a subtle hint of dark chocolate, a bit of tobacco leaf, toasted coconut, cinnamon, graphite, and cashews. As these flavors swirl and begin to fade, the fruit flavors drift and fade first, letting the oak tannins dance across the palate in a pleasantly long finish.
Review
When I think of the original Mount Gay XO and the new version, there are indeed some big differences in the profiles. The original was an exploration of oak tannins with fruit and other flavors, highlighting a deep flavor profile. This version has much more robust fruit flavors that are instead augmented by earthier flavors that create a lighter flavor profile. While an enjoyable sipper, this new incarnation of XO is a very different experience that demonstrates the creativity and skills of the blender in how they created this product with roughly the same components of the original rum. With the depth of the fruit notes, I understand why so many bartenders use it for rum Old Fashioned cocktails and how it is used in a wider range of cocktails, from classic, to tropical, depending on the bar’s needs. Since releasing this product, Mount Gay has released an updated version of Black Barrel, as well as several other highly limited and unique bottlings that have garnered the company quite a bit of attention. Considering these other releases, Mount Gay XO is a proper cornerstone of the line, reflecting Trudiann Branker’s vision for the future of the brand and worthy of the attention it has earned.
