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"Got Rum?" Magazine
Exclusive Interview with Mr. Brian Christensen, Editor and Publisher of Artisan Spirit Magazine
Margaret Ayala, Publisher of "Got Rum?" magazine, interviews Mr. Brian Christensen, Editor and Publisher of Artisan Spirit Magazine, in the February 2015 issue.
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"Got Rum?" Magazine
Artisan Spirit Magazine
Margaret Ayala, Publisher of "Got Rum?" magazine, interviews Mr. Brian Christensen, Editor and Publisher of Artisan Spirit Magazine, in the February 2015 issue.
Exclusive Interview with Mr. Brian Christensen, Editor and Publisher of Artisan Spirit Magazine
It gives me great pleasure to share this interview with all our “Got Rum?” readers, as both Luis and I admire Brian Christensen’s passion for the craft spirits industry.
We’ve had the pleasure of knowing Brian for many years and always look forward to the opportunity to sit down with him and exchange thoughts/insights about the industry.
As a result of his work for Artisan Spirit Magazine, Brian is intimately aware of all the players and trends in this industry. I am thankful to him for taking the time to grant us this interview.
Margaret Ayala,
Publisher
Artisan Spirit Magazine offers its readers a much needed window into the world of craft spirits. Can you tell us how the idea of the magazine came together and what its core mission is?
Like many startups, we began as one thing and pivoted to something else. More than once in our case. We contemplated everything from online education to opening our own distillery. As we looked into what that would entail, we found ourselves thirsting for knowledge. In the end, we decided to put our varied talents to use and become the resource that we were so desperately craving. It’s strange to think that just two years ago we had zero experience in distilling or publishing. The thing we did have, was the same thing that now drives our business; a voracious hunger to learn and a passion to share stories. That’s what Artisan Spirit Magazine’s core mission is: to share and celebrate the art and science of craft distilling. We seek to support creativity, innovation, and integrity within this industry that we love so much. We’ve built a business around being curious and a willing to risk asking stupid questions.
There is much talk these days about what “craft ” is and is not . In my opinion, “craft” is nothing more than what “business as usual” was a hundred years ago. Back then many small producers had their own pot stills and individual recipes and traditions. Can you give us your opinion?
We’ve dedicated a lot of copy to this subject ourselves, and touched on many different perspectives. However, in the end, there are two things that inform my perspective on the issue. The first is probably the most important, “are you being honest?” When someone tells their story on a label, or in person I just want to know that it’s true. It doesn’t matter to me if you make your spirit out of a garage or source it from Indiana. Just be sure to explain your process on the label so the consumer can decide what that means to them. The second is just based on our personal opinion: we love small business. Usually when a consumer thinks of something being “craft ” they are envisioning that ideal romantic small business. Operating with passion, creativity, and determination. Those qualities are by no means limited to small businesses, but that’s what sparks our imagination. So we focus on those stories, and strive to meet the needs of that part of the “craft” market.
Do you think “craft” will ever lose its “newness” and become once again, the “normal” spirit?
Newness yes, normal no. The spirits industry doesn’t have the ability to see perfectly into the future, but we may have the next best thing, the craft beer industry. By most accounts craft beer is 10-15 years ahead of the craft spirits industry. Now the comparison isn’t perfect. Spirits are more heavily regulated then beer, and consumers tend to go through a six pack of beer much faster than a bottle of spirits. Still, we can learn a lot from craft beer and what that industry has developed into. Craft beer has gone from being “new” to something synonymous with creativity, and in most cases quality. Craft distilling has the opportunity to do the same.
One of the things that makes “craft” wonderful is the ability of the people behind the movement to be original, to express their commitment to different aspects of quality or production. By the same token, this liberty allows for some people to do things that can ultimately hurt the image of craft . Do you believe a happy medium can be reached or are we looking at an industry that has to remain un-regulated to a large extent?
Creativity is one of the great driving forces behind craft distilling, and the freer businesses are to innovate the better off the industry is. However, we do have to acknowledge that “craft” doesn’t automatically mean the product is good. There are, and will continue to be, poor quality craft offerings. This means that some consumers will have a bad experience and possibly be turned off to the craft market. But I don’t think that ’s a strong enough case to make for over-regulation, which could stifle innovation. I give a lot of credit to consumers who have shown themselves to be far more curious and experimental then they used to be. I don’t see that changing anytime soon.
Based on your observations of craft spirits in the USA , are all spirit categories (whiskey, vodka, gin, rum, etc.) growing at the same rate or are there some that are growing at a much healthier rate than others?
Brown spirits are king. Aged products, particularly whisky and bourbon, are growing at a much faster rate compared than other products. This is reflected nationally and internationally, with foreign demand reaching impressive levels. In 2013 bourbon and whiskey exports broke the $1 billion threshold for the first time.
I’ve often said that in the USA , the Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) is in charge of collecting alcohol taxes and enforcing alcohol quality, and that this is a built-in conflict of interest. What are your thoughts on this topic?
I think the former definitely tends to take precedent, but that’s the nature of government. The bigger short-term problem is the issue of TTB’s limited resources. The distilling industry is growing faster than the government funding for the organization tasked with its oversight. It might be surprising to hear, but most craft distillers I’ve spoken with have a relatively good relationship with the TTB, and TTB agents are usually very helpful. However, there simply isn’t enough of them. One practical example is the growing lead time for COLAs (Certificates of Label Approval). At one time you could expect a 2-3 week response time. Now it’s not uncommon to wait 90 plus days for approval (assuming it is approved).
Have you seen any success patterns among the leading craft distillers, any common traits that help them grow their businesses?
It doesn’t sound very sexy, but the most successful distillers are those that balance their passion with efficiency, budgets, and marketing. It’s easy to get caught up in the romance of developing the perfect spirit, but if you can’t sustain your overhead, produce enough product or build a competitive marketing budget, then success becomes a long shot.
Many of the investors we sit down with are surprised when they find out that the lead time from many of the leading still manufacturers can be 6 to 12 months. This presents an opportunity for lesser-known metalsmiths to offer less expensive and faster alternatives. Do you see this as a trend that will hurt the business of the large manufacturers in the long run, or will the majority of the craft distillers always want to have name-brand equipment?
I don’t see the competition hurting large producers at all. They may miss out on a new slice of the pie, but the piece they already have is getting bigger too. Craft distillers are also rarely one-still operations for long. They are always upscaling and expanding which benefits large and small still manufacturers alike.
We have addressed in past interviews the whole issue about the shortage of barrels. Do you think this shortage is over?
Earlier I mentioned that aged spirits are currently growing at the fastest pace. From a distillers perspective this is also reflected in the huge demand for barrels. Most cooperages are seeing their lead times grow, and barrel prices have risen steadily over the last few years. All of this doesn’t even take into account the huge demand for used barrels from brewers and other markets. It’s not uncommon for a distiller to re-sell their used bourbon barrel to a brewer for close to the original purchase price. And that’s just the obvious uses. We have heard of everything from maple syrup to craft-made Tonic being placed in used spirits barrels. For now I think it is very likely that the demand for barrels will continue to grow along with the aged spirits they contain.
In the rum world specifically, on premise consumption has been helped by a return to Tiki-themed mixology. In general terms, all categories have been boosted by prohibitionist inspiration. Do you think these trends have staying power?
Yes, but it’s going to be fluid. Bartenders and the consumers they serve are quick to transition from spirit to spirit and their tastes are constantly evolving. It’s going to be difficult to pin consumers down to one style for long.
If people want to contact you, how may they reach you?
You can head to our website at http://artisanspiritmag.com/, or email me directly at Brian@artisanspiritmag.com. I’m always eager to talk shop. Just know that I still ask a lot of dumb questions. It’s kind of my thing.
Once again, thank you very much for taking the time to give us this interview.