Show Me Some PROOF!!!
It seems that the “Overproof ” and “High Proof” rums are becoming more sought after in the mixology world. I remember when the only high octane rum you could find behind bars was Bacardi 151, and it was only used to light cocktails or shots on fire. Now I am seeing bartenders use them as the base spirit in cocktails, and they add complexity and depth of flavor that you don’t get in lower proof rums. Yes, a delicate hand is necessary— you’ll want to add other ingredients so your cocktail is not too spirituous, but I am finding that these rums can be so much fun to mix with.
The concept of “Proof” started with the British Royal Navy, whose sailors were given daily rations (or “tots”) of rum after the invasion of Jamaica in 1655. These rations measured to about a half pint, and was given to them around midday. The sailors believed that the person distributing the rum was keeping extra for himself and therefore watering down the remainder of the barrels, so they developed their very own test.
They would take a bit of gunpowder, sprinkle it on the rum, and light it. If it did indeed catch on fire, they knew the rum was at least 57% abv and not diluted. Hence the term, “Navy Strength”. Pusser’s rum makes a “Gunpowder Proof ” which sits at 54% abv (109 proof ) and is arguably close to that original style. I’m not sure if you want to try to drink half a pint in the middle of the afternoon though!
There is definitely a correlation between the proof of a spirit and it’s flavor. Most spirits come out of the still at a higher proof than they are bottled at. The way the distiller lowers that proof is by adding water, and the more you dilute that spirit, the less flavor remains. That being said, the high proof rums of today are extremely flavorful.
I recently enjoyed a few high proof rum cocktails made by local bartenders, which were fantastic and became the inspiration for this article.
The first was made with Appleton Estate and Wray & Nephew Overproof rum. Bottled at 63% abv, (126 proof ) the Wray & Nephew is a very intense rum that really packs a punch. (no pun intended) What I found most fascinating about this drink is that the predominant flavor was BANANA, yet there was no banana used in the recipe. It was so prominent that I asked the bartender twice where the flavor was coming from. “The banana notes come predominantly from the Wray and Nephew. Bolster that with a little cardamom and the banana really stands out”, says Michael Theg of Sidebar in Columbus, Ohio.
He was kind enough to share his recipe for this delicious punch, which is a stronger version of the Tiki classic “Jungle Bird”. It is simple to make but has very complex flavors.
JUNGLE GYM
Ingredients:
• 0.75 oz. Campari (One Bottle or 25.4 oz.)
• 0.5 oz. Lime Juice (Approx. 13 oz.)
• 0.5 oz. Cardamom Simple Syrup* (Approx. 13 oz.)
• 1.5 oz. Unsweetened Pineapple Juice (Approx. 38 oz.)
• 1 oz. Appleton Estate Rum (One Bottle or 25.4 oz.)
• 0.5 oz. Wray & Nephew (Approx. 13 oz.)
Directions:
Combine all ingredients, stir heavily. Punch can be batched and combined a day ahead.
Garnish bowl with thin sliced lime wheels, pineapple wedges, add ice block or mold.
This next recipe is an example of a more difficult and labor intensive punch but the result is fragrant, tropical, and again, with hints of banana! It showcases Hamilton Overproof 151 Demerara Rum which is distilled from molasses and has rich flavors of winter spices, dark stone fruits, and brown sugar.
HAMILTON PUNCH
created by Nicole Hollerman
Ingredients:
• 1 Bottle Hamilton Overproof 151 infused with Pineapple Bark (immersion circulator @50 degrees Celsius for two hours)
• 2 Liters Coconut Water infused with fresh Kafir Lime Leaf (cold-steeped)
• 1 Cup Clément Mahina Coco
• 1 Cup Spiced Oleo Saccharum (rock sugar ground with anise, clove, cinnamon, and allspice- -oiled with orange and lemon peel)
Directions:
Combine all ingredients in a punch bowl, stir well and enjoy with an ice wheel with pineapple and orange slices.
-Article written by Cris Dehlavi-
My name is Cris Dehlavi and I am a native of Arizona, but have lived in Columbus, Ohio for the past 13 years with my daughter, Desi. I have been running the bar program at “M”, of the Cameron Mitchell Restaurant group since 2005. I am currently the President of Columbus USBG as well as a consultant for bars and restaurants nationally.
In 2013, I attended the rigorous B.A.R. 5 Day Spirits Certification and have been recognized as one of the top mixologists in the U.S.A. I am one of the senior managers of the prestigious apprentice program at Tales of the Cocktail and work as a mentor to many bartenders around Ohio.
My contribution to Got Rum? magazine will include everything from reviews of national cocktail events, articles on mixology, garnish trends, recipes and techniques, to interviews with some of the leading bartenders in the industry.