Puerto Rico: Welcome Caribe

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I just came back from a week in San Juan, Puerto Rico and it was absolutely amazing. I spent an afternoon at the Don Q Distillery (next month’s article), worked with the folks who run La Factoria (one of the top 50 bars in the world), and got really immersed in the cocktail culture. One night we had dinner and drinks at Jungle Bird (another future article!) and they had a little table of books and bar tools for sale. I purchased Jeff Berry’s new book, Potions of the Caribbean and I literally cannot put it down! If you are a lover of rum, and all things Tiki, you MUST add this book to your collection. The photos are incredible and there are tons of stories and cocktail recipes I have never even heard of.

One of the sections that struck me the most is about a famous bartender by the name of Joe Scialom. He encouraged people to call him “Joe the Bartender” but he was far more than just that. Joe Scialom spoke 8 languages fluently, and dressed impeccably. He was born in Egypt in 1910, his father being a Sephardic Jew from Italy and his mother a Russian Jew. His father owned a pharmacy in Cairo, and given that he was expected to take over the family business, he studied Chemistry in France in the late 1920’s. He didn’t necessarily love the mixing of medicines but what he was passionate about was mixing tinctures on hand for the purpose of “making something that would make people cheerful”. Joe made a name for himself as a bartender in Egypt, making cocktails for very famous names including Egypt’s King Farouk, Sir Winston Churchill, and Charles de Gaulle. During the 1940’s, Conrad Hilton began opening luxurious Hilton locations that he called “little Americas”. Puerto Rico was the first property and Hilton left no stone unturned. It was called the Caribe Hilton and was a 10 story hotel with over 300 rooms, an outdoor swimming pool, and a private beach. Guests were greeted with a beautiful cocktail upon arrival, the “Welcome Caribe Hilton Cocktail”, one of many tropical drinks served at this location. Swanky and exotic are the words that come to mind to describe this incredible spot.

Conrad Hilton knew he needed the right person at the helm to manage the bar at The Caribe and Joe Scialom was the perfect fit. Joe was not only a brilliant cocktail crafter, but he was also Mr. Personality--- and this is the part I relate to and love so much about him. He understood the importance of hospitality........many people can make a great drink, but a great bartender is so much more than that. He was quoted once as saying “The complete bartender is a blend of diplomat, man of the world, father, confessor, financial advisor, and storyteller, with a dash of education”. I would probably also add psychiatrist to this list but I certainly concur and try to live by this exact mantra. Joe was also far ahead of his time with his use of local ingredients--- by today’s standards that is just expected of a craft cocktail bartender but in the 1950’s, not so much. Whether you are reading this is as a working bartender, a novice cocktail maker, or just someone who enjoys sitting at a bar, I hope that you can appreciate my affinity for Joe Scialom. If I could travel back in time, I would go spend a week learning from him!

I have included a few recipes of Joe’s below, as well as the Caribe welcome drink. When I was in Puerto Rico last week I had fresh guanabana for the first time (Yum!) so I had to include one with it. Also- on a side note- Puerto Rico is alive and well after the devastation of hurricane Maria, and I highly recommend it as a wonderful getaway. The food and cocktail scene is world class and the beaches are outstanding.

CARIBE WELCOME COCKTAIL (Circa 1954, originally created by Ricardo Garcia)

  • 1.5 oz.Puerto Rican gold rum
  • .5 oz.  apricot brandy
  • 2 oz.   coconut water
  • .5 oz.  Coco Lopez coconut cream
  • .3 oz.  fresh lime juice

Shake all ingredients with ice, and if you are able to source a whole coconut, this drink is extra special when served in one. Serve over ice and garnish with lime. 

OLD FASHIONED VOODO  (Circa 1957, by Joe Scialom)

  • 1 oz. Puerto Rican gold rum
  • 1 oz. apricot brandy
  • 2 oz. guanabana juice
  • 1 oz. whole milk

Shake this cocktail with ice and serve over fresh ice in an old fashioned glass. Garnish with fresh grated coconut and nutmeg, and if fresh guanabana is available, it makes a lovely garnish. 

*Guanabana is also called soursop. I have bought the Jumex brand before but it is a bit sweet so if you are using that you may want to pull back on the amount in this drink.

TROPICAL ITCH (Circa 1957, by Joe Scialom)

  • 2 oz.  Puerto Rican light rum
  • 1 oz.  Jamaican dark rum
  • 1 oz.  vodka
  • 1 oz.  Grand Marnier
  • 6 oz.  mango juice
  • .5 oz.  fresh lime juice
  • 2 dashes Angostura Bitters

This is a giant recipe--- over eleven ounces!! I think this is definitely a drink for two, so you will either need to pour it into two glasses or find one large vessel with two straws. Shake all ingredients well with ice and garnish with all the elaborate Tiki garnishes you want, such as: mint, pineapple, lime, orchids, etc...

-Article written by Cris Dehlavi-