Essential Rum Cocktails - Part V: Rum Runner
Chasing The Rum Runner
In order for a cocktail to survive the test of time, it must first reach a high level of acceptance among the consumers who frequent its place of birth. The cocktail is then spread to other watering holes as either consumers who have observed its manufacture direct new bar tenders as they re-create it, or as the original bartenders change jobs and take the recipes with them. As either of the above scenarios take place, the recipes are committed to paper and the first step towards mixology immortality is achieved.
Tracing the origin of a cocktail involves the opposite: one must begin by finding written references, something done quite easily in this era of the internet. Then the search moves on to cocktail and culinary books, always trying to find the earliest published reference to the cocktail.
Rum Runners have always fascinated me, not only because I enjoy their rum- rich and refreshing taste, but because of the amount of lore surrounding their invention. Many internet references claim that the Rum Runner was invented sometime in the late 1950’s at the Holiday Isle Tiki Bar in Islamorada, Florida. According to the same sources, the bartender was faced with the challenge of creating a new rum cocktail to quickly dispose of large volumes of rum and other liquors prior to the arrival of new inventory. The main problem with this story is that the establishment in question did not even exist back then! According to their website, the Holiday Isle Tiki Bar started serving drinks to customers in 1969 under the name of The Hapi Hula Hut. The official story from the bar goes on to say that it was not until 1972 when the hotel owner challenged “Tiki John,” the bar manager, to make a cocktail using the excess inventory from the storeroom and thus the Rum Runner was born.
My research has led me to the conclusion that the first theory (origin in the 1950’s) is completely unsubstantiated. As for the second theory, I can’t find any bartending books from the early 1970’s that include a cocktail by this name. Trader Vic’s Rum Cookery and Drinkery as well as his Bartender’s Guide, published in 1972 and 1974 respectively, do not mention this drink. Is it possible that, just like Bill McCoy evaded capture by the revenue cutters during his rum running days aboard the Arethusa, that the Rum Runner cocktail evaded being captured in print until much later?
And thus my fascination with the Rum Runner continues. Perhaps one day I will know for certain how this important member of modern rum mixology came to be, but until then I remain happy to serve and enjoy it.
Cheers!
Dr. Ron is a seasoned bar tender devoted to exploring the many facets of rum. It has been said that he has rum running through his veins! He is used to serving up fine spirits and words of wisdom to all those lucky enough to f ind an open seat at his bar. Fortunately for us, Dr. Ron has agreed to be a regular contributor to “Got Rum?” magazine. He happily answers questions on topics ranging from mixology to relationships and etiquette.